Led Diody Vysokosvietive Top Klasa
Tme.eu is ranked #139 for Shopping/Consumer Electronics and #15686 Globally. Get a full report of their traffic statistics and market share. Single-color LED strip lights are the perfect way to add illumination for under-cabinet lighting, cove lighting, shelf lighting, pool lighting, deck lighting, landscape lighting, and more. A wide range of colors are available from white to UV black light. Change brightness and color modes with a compatible single-color LED controller. For sale, a new LED clearance marker light with 3 red diodes and a clear lens. This unit is a stud mount and the base dimension is 1-1/8' x 2-1/8'. Mounts through a 1/4' hole.
Medieval 2 total war kingdoms trainer. What’s the difference between 3528, 5050 and 5630 LEDs?The answer is simple, really. Those numbers refer to the surface area of the. But of course there is much more to it. In this article you will find the following:. Specifications for 3528, 5050 and 5630 LEDs including lumens, amp/wattage draw and diode size. Photos of the actual illumination characteristics of each diode type.
Conclusion that answers which diode type is suitable for different purposes and projectsEpistar LED Specifications (3528 vs 5050 vs 5630). LEDDimensionsChip Surface AreaLumen FluxPower Consumption3528 LED3.5 mm x 2.8 mm9.8 mm²6-8 lumens20-30 mA @ 2.8-3.4 Volts5050 LED5.0 mm x 5.0 mm25 mm²16-22 lumens60 mA @ 2.8-3.4 Volts5630 LED5.6 mm x 3.0 mm16.8 mm²45-50 lumens150 mA @ 2.8-3.4 VoltsNotes. Lumens: A unit equal to the amount of light emitted per second.
Power Consumption: This is per LED. Most LED strips such as the ones we offer group LEDs into 3’s, achieving an operating voltage of 12.
Diode & Chip: Used interchangeably to refer to a semiconductor device with two terminals. The term is somewhat arbitrary when speaking of electrical boards in general, but in this context we’re using them to refer specifically to LED chips designed for surface-mounting.Are 5630 LEDs brighter than 5050 and 3528 LEDs? What is the brightest LED type?Yes, as you can see by the table above, 5630 LEDs are by far the brightest, but it is not due simply to a larger lighting surface. There are other factors that go into the output of an LED diode (measured in luminous flux/lumens). The reasons are to do with the design of the chip and the amount of power that they draw. Controlled Test of 3528, 5050 and 5630 LED Lumen OutputWe can talk specifications all day long, but in this case seeing is believing.
To further demonstrate the lumen output differences between the three diodes, we setup a test in our facilities, and as you can see, there are huge differences between the three sizes. Animated GIF comparison of 3528, 5050 and 5630 LED diodesHow was this test conducted?3 LEDs were used for each diode size and mounted to a solid surface.
Each was placed in front of a white panel. The same power supply was used for all three LED sizes. The camera and illumination panel were unmoved and unaltered during these tests which all took place within a 5 minute period. The only difference from one photo to the next was the diode set used. In short, every attempt was made to create a 100% consistent and controlled environment to accurately demonstrate the luminosity of the LEDs. CameraModeShutterApertureISONikon D5100Manual1' SecondF/22100.
All settings were consistent and unchanged throughout testsSo what’s the conclusion? What should you use for your project?The results of these tests are fairly straight forward. If you need the highest possible luminosity, 5630 is the way to go. One of the greatest advantages to the 5630 LEDs we carry is their adaptability.
If you have a project that does not require the full output of the 5630’s, you could simply dim them down to the appropriate level using one of our inline dimmers. Even if this new level is near the output lumens of 5050 or 3528, you’ll be running your 5630 LEDs well below their maximum settings, prolonging their life significantly.When it comes to 5630 LEDs, we use genuine Epistar LED diodes exclusively. The quality, reliability, output and value are above and beyond other chip manufacturers, enough so that we confidently offer a two-year warranty on all our products. If you’re in the market for 5630 LEDs, and if you need any help, we’re happy to offer advice.
Standard flashlight bezel and LED Forget ‘Grease’ – CREE Is The Word!CREE, Incorporated was founded in 1987 at North Carolina State University. The research that went into the development of cheaper and more efficient ways of producing light, have almost become a household word! For those interested in handheld flashlights, the CREE LED has become the dominant force responsible for bringing the devices into the 21st century! When You’ve Seen One, Have You Seen Them All?With regards to some things, yes. With regards to LED’s, no. Some will say that LED’s have become smaller over the years.
Some will disagree by adding that it’s the “die size” that has increased. LED’s vary in size. These differences, when coupled with the size and shape of the reflector, are what give YOU the user, the beam that you prefer.Read on to discover how to determine this when shopping for an LED flashlight.
Alphabet SoupAll this wonderful technology has created quite a challenge for consumers. It’s not enough for flashlight seekers that they must understand terminologies that relate to lumens, battery types, run times etc but trying to make sense of the LED models themselves can be quite mind boggling!
This is a CREE XP-G R5 LEDHere a basic roll call of the XLamp LED models that CREE has introduced over the last decade or so.Basically in order of consumer appearance, are XR-E, XP-E, XP-G, XM-L. These are the LED models, so to speak.
Each model however has several luminous flux bins. Please don’t ask me to define that terminology, just know that it exists and it’s one of the components that you should have a basic understand of when looking at flashlight specifications.Flux Bins Rule!If you read the paragraph above, then you’re already familiar with what flux bins are.
If you didn’tscroll up and read it before continuing.The flux bins are (more-or-less) brightness codesin the form of a rating.There’s no denying that flashlights have become brighter over the years. And although the reasoning behind the naming of the codes means nothing to consumers, just try to remember that with each sequence of codes, the lights have added more lumens!An example of the flux bin codes that have accompanied the LED models (as noted earlier in the article) have had naming references such as Q2, Q5, R2, L2, U2, T6, etc. These codes always follow the model number. Over the period, there have been many combinations of bins assigned which have not become flashlight components. Below, are the combinations which you are more likely to see, or have seen. Dissecting The Bins.
XR-E (R2)A light with this LED (if there’s still one in the clearance closet) will be several years old. Its highest lumen count will be around 300, using lithium batteries. It WILL however have excellent throw! (enabling the beam to travel at a great distance). XP-E (R2)Not much different than XR-E except for its size.
Performance about equal. XP-C (Q4)If you should see a flashlight with this LEDpass on it.
The XP-C is a low-power LED which offers a much lower maximum drive current than others in the XP family. It’s also much cheaper to produce. It won’t offer a lot of lumens and is capable of over-heating itself to death (causing permanent failure) due to the cheaper mounting material used in the assembly. On the retail level, flashlights with this LED have been known to be sold at cost-conscious big-box stores. Check labeling carefully!.
XP-G (R5) and XP-G2The ‘G’ and ‘G2’ line feature a boost in lumens. The ‘G2’ offers up to 20% more than the ‘G’. This line also offers throwing capability much closer to that of the older XR-E.
Note that the size of the ‘G2’ is a tad smaller, producing a slightly smaller beam. XM-L (T6)/(U2). An XM-L2 T6 LEDVirtually all flashlights made today use an XM-L LED. This LED produces a full-flood beam, with less throw than the XP-G. Total lumen output for the original XM-L peaked at near 700. Differences in the T6 and U2 flux bins include higher brightness.
The T6 cannot output more than 910-975 lumens. (.see note) Meanwhile the U2 bin is 7% brighter than the T6. Overall beam distance (throw) has increased since the XM-L. Both of the more recent bins have less flood overall.Part of what makes the XM-L visually distinctive, is its slightly larger size and a six-line grid across the die. XM-L2 U2/U3Similar in size (5mm x 5mm) to the XM-L, the L2 has increased brightness by about 20%. It has also omitted the “grid” found on the XM-L.The T6 bin is present in both the XM-L & XM-L2 emitters.
T6 output within the L2, peaks between 1044-1119 lumens.The U3 bin has now appeared in many flashlights. Brightness has modestly increased again. Top output is 1193-1268. XP-L/HIContinued advances in LED technology made the XP-L LED available in the spring of 2014. CREE XP-L HIThe XP-L is the same size die as the XM-L2, but it’s placed onto the smaller size board of the older XP-G.
Whereas the XP-G is king when it comes to “throwing” capabilities, the XP-L doesn’t throw quite as far, but it makes up for it in brightness and the fact that it can be driven at much higher currents.About a year after its introduction, a “high intensity” version was released. This is now known as XP-L HI. In some new flashlights, including Manker’s, you’ll find the “HI” LED.
Their are various versions of it, and the T01’s brother features a “HI” in V5, which puts its highest available output between 1176 and 1227. The T01 is 900 lumens, the U11 is 1050. XHP35/HIWith 50% higher performance than its nearest predecessor, the XHP35 LED can be found in various types of lighting and has a traditional “domed” shape to it. At 3.45 x 3.45 mm, it’s a tiny LED BUT can output up to 1883 lumens! One of my favorite flashlights (to date) using an XHP35 is the.Meanwhile, the “HI” (high intensity) version, although the same size, is FLAT (just like the XP-L HI) and is capable of producing up to 1483 lumens!
It produces a very focused beam with a tight center-spot. A good example of this, is the. There’s also another variation to this LED, which is designated as “HD”. XHP50/50.2The XHP50 is part of CREE’s “Extreme High Power” class of LED’s. Once again, it’s shaped like a dome and at 5×5 mm, it’s a bit larger. It achieves DOUBLE the output of the popular XM-L2, at an impressive 2546 lumens. For an example of XHP50 power, see the.For the 50.2, lumen “density” was improved a bit, even though size and shape remained the same.
Output also increased a small amount, to 2654 lumens. XHP70/70.2. LEFT: Neutral White — RIGHT: Cool WhiteNot so much with today’s XM-L technology, but varying tint bins were all the rage with XP LED’s. Many new variations of popular lights were released with neutral white and some warm white LED bins. Although a popular alternative to the standard cool white LED color, the warmer tint bins featured less lumens due to the thicker LED coatings.
I always feel it’s useful to know that there are an abundance of cheaply made flashlights in today’s marketplace. The internet is full of them. Many of these lights feature a XM-L T6 LED.
And many that do, routinely inflate their lumens to 1600 and above. As noted in the XM-L section, the T6 bin is limited to slightly less than 1000 lumens. The consumer should be aware of these blatant inaccuracies.Something else to keep in mind, are the output estimates from CREE. In many flashlights, “out the front” lumens are less that the given output which sometimes gets absorbed by the reflector. Some lights have better designed optics to alleviate lost output.
Led Diody Vysokosvietive Top Klasa 11
The biggest offenders in “lost lumens” are the “focusing” flashlights, whereby the beam widens and narrows by pushing and pulling the head forward and backward. These are mainly low-cost, poorly-made,.What did you think of the best CREE LED comparison? Was it helpful? Do you have any questions or comments relating to anything discussed here? If so, please fill out the fields below.
Very informative, thank you! It would helpful to know what amount of run time we could expect on a given battery. Meaning how long the bulb would produce bright light using for instance an 18650 battery. I also noticed that many flashlights use an aluminum reflector. Whereas most flashlights use an aluminum vapor coated plastic one.
I have to assume this is because of the amount of heat produced by the LED. I also know that Halogen automotive lights use aluminum vapor coated steel or glass (solid glass drop in headlamps), so it seems that the aluminum vapor coating is the standard. Do LED’s make so much heat that a vapor coating will not hold up? Thanks for commenting! LED’s DO create a fair amount of heat, and the best flashlights do what they can to minimize (and prevent) any possible damage caused by excessive heat.
Your question about runtime is usually answered within the specs of most lights. How long the brightest output is good for depends on many factorsincluding the battery.I wish I could comment more intelligently on the subject of vapor coating. This is (admittedly) something I’ve not heard much aboutbut thanks for mentioning it, it’s worth looking into! Thanks for your comment! I’m glad you found the post helpful. Unfortunately it’s the type that needs tweaking now and again, since the technology doesn’t stand still for long! I can’t say that the brightest LED’s today are XM-L2’s etc In recent months, XP-L (and its various “bin” types) have generally surpassed them.
Then, I’ve seen several recent lights with XHP LED’s! Some as XHP-35 and some, XHP-50. The outputs on THESE lights, are way surpassing anything with an XM-L2.I’ll try to keep this post as up to date as possible, but sometimes these changes occur without much fanfare. So until new lights are suddenly introduced with the new technology, then it’s not easy to know it has happened. Are these same LED’s being used now in automobile headlamps and household light bulbs, or are there completely different types being used in these applications? For example, I have recently seen a CREE XHP 50 that was normally meant for automobile headlamps advertised as being used in Nebo’s Redline Blast at1400 lumens.
I’d imagine that being driven at a lower voltage than the 12 volts seen in autos makes a difference.Someday, can you please discuss the new COB (chips on board) LED’s that are becoming more and more common. PS: I really enjoyed your article. Hello Dan, Models of lights will change now and again, and with those changes they’ll sometimes configure it with different LED types. I believe the Convoy C8 is one of those that’s gone through different life-cycles, and is available in different versions.From what I know at this moment, the brightest type of LED is the “XHP”. I have a few lights featuring it. It comes in a few variations; XHP35, 50 and 70.
In the 35 there’s a “HI” (high intensity) and an “HD” (high density). The maximum output increases with each bin variation, with the XHP70 being the brightestat just over 4000 lumens!Thank you, and I hope that answers your question. Hi, from a SCUBA diving perspective, would an xhp70 equipped single LED torch work better than say one with multiple T6/U2 LEDs. Is there anything to suggest that the XHP70 are more for focus whereas a setup with multiple T6 LEDs would give a scatter/dispersion effect?
Underwater, I would normally wish for a strong beam neither too wide nor too focused and with low back-scatter.I know, a rather specific need. That said, lovely informative piece. Any clarity I have now on the subject is thanks to reading this piece. Thanks very much for the comment 🙂While I’m not a scuba diver, I would assume that a more general type of beam would be more useful underwater, than say an XP-L HI, with its more focused beam. From what I’ve seen of the XHP-70, it didn’t strike me as having a particularly focused pattern.
If you want a more “balanced” beam, then I think most any of them, except those with the “HI” designation, would be suitable.Ironically, I’m being sent a diving light for review, which uses an XM-L2(U4) neutral white LED. As I said, I don’t dive, so I might be at a slight disadvantage!Hopefully I was of some help with my response. Wilkie: this is a fascinating article and I have had to read it multiple times in order to get even the remotest idea of how the various incarnations of the emitters affect the overall light produced. In researching what I want, a tactical flashlight, I see that the higher end products have Cool White as the only option, (Thrunite excepted) and in one video I saw, the reviewer stated that the slightly smaller size of the emitter would produce a more focused beam.
As of this writing I seem to be between the Thrunite TC12 V2 and the Klarus XT11S. The Klarus has the brighter XHP- 35 while the Thrunite has the XP-L V6 which is slightly larger. But in looking at video reviews of both lights, both lights seem to be pretty concentrated in focus so there isn’t much spill to illuminate the surrounding area 15-20 around you unless you point the light to the ground. I found a light from Brightex Labs, XR1100 that has a feature which you do not like, that being zoomable in order to give more of a flood look. So the questions I have are: 1) does the smaller size emitter produce a narrower beam? 2) Why is the zoom feature a negative? 3) the Thrunite gives the option of either a CW vs.
NW emitter color. I’ve read that the cool white is harder on the eyes to see but it is brighter than NW at the same output. True not true?
What is your perspective? 4) does having a higher mAh in the same size battery, say a 16850 have any impact on run time, output brightness? Thanks for the comment Norbert!Your two choices are pretty good!
I must correct you though, it’s the XT11GT which has the XHP35, and 2000 lumens. The original XT11S, still has the XP-L V3 LED.
As far as those two choices are concerned, the differences in output, 1100 lumens vs. 2000, is negligible.
The beam patterns will be slightly different, but not the brightness. PERCEPTION of brightness might be noticeable due to the more focused beam of the XP-L.So, to answer your questions.Emitter size does not necessarily dictate beam with. One thing that often DOES aid in focusing a beam, is a deep reflector. On lights where the LED is placed within a shallow reflector, the beam is much “floodier”. One characteristic of the XP-L HI, is a narrower, more focused beam pattern.For some, having a focusing beam might be an asset. Perhaps this is more personal opinion.
I personally don’t like them, because I feel they’re more of a gimmick. The give the PERCEPTION of brighter light when focused. But in reality, the light is no brighter, and in fact, light is LOST in most cases, because most focusing lights don’t HAVE a reflector, so the light produced by the LED is in fact not even being projected out the front! Focusing lights were made famous by Maglite, and mainly appeal to past users of that brand. The light produced by a quality fixed-beam flashlight, with an equally high-quality reflector, does a far superior job at both close up, AND distant illumination, than a focusing flashlight can.LED tints are a personal matter. Many “flashaholics” prefer NW or even warm-white, because they allow for better color rendition.
For instance GREEN objects (like trees etc) look more natural under a warmer tint. I’m not sure if CW is harder on the eyes. Personally, I haven’t noticed that.
What HAS been said to be more tiring on eyes, is the “bluish” tint that many ultra-cheap flashlights produceall the while claiming it’s cool-white! What is also true, is that CW & NW LED’s are often lower in lumens than their CW counterparts. Appreciators of these tints gladly accept a slightly lower output.Finally, with regards to mAh. Yeshigher mAh is like having a bigger gas tank! A larger capacity battery means longer run time, but also longer charge times as well. As I’ve said though, beware of cheap batteries, which artificially inflate their capacity just to increase sales!Having more mAh does NOT affect output though.
A 1000 lumen light offers the same output whether it’s powered by a 1000 mAh battery, or a 3500 mAh battery.Thanks for the questions! Hope the answers have been helpful 🙂. Thank you Tom!The differences in throw are attributed to a couple of factors. The reflector shapes the beam. Smooth reflectors produce longer throw.
It also depends on how deep the LED is set within the reflector. A “deep” LED always produces a tightly focused beam with throwing distances up to several hundred meters. Those that are coated in orange peel, have shorter throw and greater flood. The output of the light really doesn’t play much part in the equation.I hope that explains it a little bit better. Well, what CAN I say!?
This has simply got to be my GOTO from now on in for ANY questions I have about LED TORCHES!I am not stupid (My doctor is ALWAYS saying that, but he DOES mutter a lot?) And have been an Electrical Engineer for some 40 Years after studying my trade in the Royal Navy (UK Branch!)But this site is truly a Knowledge font! And YOU Sir are the MAN. And LONG may this site be up and running!Just thought, it MUST cost a few bob to keep the site up and running??
So HOW does one contribute?? Wont be a lot (Pension NEVER does go that Far!) but I DO like to pay my way and give credence to someone or thing that deserves it!Chris. Hi Chris,I appreciate the comment/compliment!Yes, it does cost more than a few pennies to keep the site up and running, which I try to offset by linking to Amazon and other merchants. I have never requested contributions from my visitors and have no specific plans to do so.
Having said that though, it would certainly be appreciated. For reference, my PayPal address is paypal.me/BRWilkie. Again, this isn’t a request for a donation, but if you feel my content is deserving, then I would be most humbled.BenThanks for visiting 🙂. Very informative article!
Thank you for the education. Do you know if Cree will be releasing any new LEDs in the near future? I’ve owned a few Nitecores for about 3 years now and have loved them! It all probably stemmed from back when I was a child in a religious retreat in the woods with the school. My mom had bought me a hefty maglite and I had the brightest light in the whole camp (which later got confiscated by a grumpy teacher with no sense of fun). Would be hillarious if I somehow had a P12GT from the future.
People wouldn’t believe it. HelloJust find out about that great article! Many thanks for putting all of those very valuable information all together.
I am a novice and was looking at the Imalent MS12 after looking at their R90C. I am a little puzled as Imalent said they used cree XHP70 first gen in their MS12, claiming that second gen does not cope well with heat of the MS12, and saying that 1st gen is better in that regard. I have some problem with that statement.
Do you buy into this? Do you think this is true? Or did they simply want to cut cost on the MS12?Many thanks for your precious opinion on that for the novice I am.
Hi Robert,Yes, flashlight performance claims ARE confusing. To be honest, I don’t pay any attention to candlepower ratings, and I’ve never equated them to lumen output. 1000 is a pretty good estimate for the Soonfire.
Even if its true output is closer to 1100, you won’t be able to see the difference. If you want to do the math, 1cd is equal to 12.57 lumens.Osram is another manufacturerlike CREE, and they have a line of LED’s, which apparently is finding its way into handheld lighting products. I’m about as unfamiliar with them as you are, since I haven’t been offered any to test and reviewyet. I’m sure in time we’ll get our chance.Thanks for the comment 🙂Ben.